Few topics in skincare create more debate than diet and acne. Some people are convinced chocolate causes breakouts. Others blame dairy, sugar, gluten, or specific foods. Meanwhile, many people have tried eliminating entire food groups only to find their skin remains exactly the same.

So what does the research actually say? The answer sits somewhere between the two extremes. Diet can influence acne in some people, but acne is rarely caused by a single food or ingredient.

Why Diet Became Such a Controversial Topic

For many years, the relationship between diet and acne was largely dismissed, with the prevailing belief that food had little or no effect on breakouts. More recent research has challenged that idea. While diet is not considered the primary cause of acne, studies suggest certain dietary patterns may influence some of the biological processes involved in its development, which has led researchers to take a closer look at how nutrition affects the skin.

Acne Is Still Primarily a Skin Condition

Before discussing food, it is worth keeping one fact in mind. Acne develops through a combination of factors within the skin, including inflammation, excess oil production, follicular blockage, hormonal influences, and genetics. Diet may influence some of these processes, but it does not replace them, which is why two people can eat exactly the same foods and have very different skin.

The Role of High Glycaemic Foods

One area that has attracted significant research interest is the effect of high glycaemic diets, meaning diets containing large amounts of rapidly absorbed carbohydrates such as sugary drinks, sweets, cakes and pastries, white bread, and highly processed snack foods. These foods can cause rapid rises in blood glucose and insulin levels, and researchers believe repeated spikes in insulin may influence pathways involved in oil production, inflammation, and acne development. This does not mean a slice of cake will automatically cause a breakout. Overall dietary patterns appear to matter more than individual foods.

What About Dairy?

Dairy is another topic that frequently comes up in conversations about acne. Some studies have found an association between dairy consumption and acne in certain individuals, though the reasons are not fully understood. Researchers believe this may relate to hormonal signalling pathways that influence the skin, rather than the fat content of dairy itself. The relationship is far from straightforward, many people consume dairy regularly without experiencing acne, while others notice improvements when their intake is reduced.

Should You Cut Out Entire Food Groups?

For most people, the answer is no. One of the more common mistakes is assuming acne can be resolved through increasingly restrictive diets, which often creates unnecessary stress and makes eating unnecessarily complicated. Unless there is a clear medical reason or a consistently observed personal trigger, eliminating large numbers of foods is rarely the best starting point. A balanced, sustainable approach is usually more helpful than extreme dietary restriction.

Looking at the Bigger Picture

When it comes to diet and acne, it is tempting to look for a single culprit, but acne rarely works that way. Even when diet plays a role, it is usually interacting with other factors such as genetics, hormonal influences, inflammation, skin barrier health, and lifestyle, which is why acne management often calls for a broader perspective rather than a focus on food alone.

What Should You Do?

Rather than searching for a miracle food or a single dietary trigger, it is often more useful to focus on overall health and consistency. Pay attention to patterns, and notice whether certain foods appear to affect your skin over time. At the same time, remember that acne is a complex condition, and food is only one piece of a much larger picture.

My Approach to Acne

Because acne is driven by multiple factors, there is rarely a single product or treatment that resolves it on its own. My approach focuses on reducing inflammation, supporting healthy skin function, and building long-term stability within the skin.

For acne-prone skin, I offer a microneedling protocol called Acne Clear Reset. This treatment is designed to support skin regeneration, improve overall skin health, and address some of the underlying processes involved in acne.

For many years, microneedling was considered unsuitable for active acne. More recent research suggests that the same regenerative processes which make microneedling effective for concerns such as ageing and pigmentation may also offer benefits for acne-prone skin when used appropriately.

Every skin is different, which is why each Acne Clear Reset treatment begins with an assessment of your skin, your acne history, and your current home care routine.

A Simpler Approach to Acne Home Care

A common misconception in skincare is that acne requires a complicated routine. In reality, consistency tends to matter more than complexity.

For most acne-prone clients, I recommend keeping home care to four essentials:

• A gentle cleanser
• A moisturiser that supports the skin barrier
• Daily broad-spectrum sun protection
• A prescription-strength retinoid, prescribed by your doctor or dermatologist

The retinoid is the treatment step. The cleanser, moisturiser, and sunscreen form the support structure that allows the skin to tolerate it well. My goal is always to simplify the routine and focus on the elements with the strongest evidence behind them.

Looking for Help With Acne?

If you are feeling overwhelmed by conflicting advice, complicated routines, or breakouts that will not settle, you are not alone. My Acne Clear Reset treatment includes professional microneedling together with an assessment of your skin and current routine. From there, I can help you understand what may be contributing to your acne and guide you towards a simple, evidence-based approach to home care.

Appointments are available at Skin by Natalie H, Beverley, Fourways.